Basics of Shoemaking: Glues, Cements, Pastes...
When I was first getting started in shoemaking, I had already spent at least 3 years getting to know the process through countless videos and blog posts detailing the steps. But one thing remained unclear (ok, a lot of it remained unclear but this one seemed like a biggie) and that was: which glue do you use and where do you use it?!
I'd seen different adhesives being used in different parts of the process but had no idea what they were called or what were their differences. So, I'm here to share that info with you today! (in case you're currently wondering the same).
Generally, neoprene or solvent-based contact cement and rubber cement are quite toxic, so now there are also water-based non-toxic formulas. I will speak on the differences here.
Contact Cement is used for anything that requires a permanent and very strong bond. For example: outsoles and stacked heels, I also use it to attach my wooden heels before I nail them on. I also use contact cement for wrapping my midsoles in leather, when creating open back shoes/sandals/mules/etc. And, this is also what you use when applying the sock liner, specifically with open back shoes.
In my experience "Renia Colle de Cologne" contact cement is the best. https://tinyurl.com/z8fbbzy8
Rubber Cement is used for anything that doesn't require a permanent bond, for example, when attaching separate pieces of upper leather together in preparation for sewing or I was also taught that it can also be used to attach the sock liner inside the shoe, when creating closed styles (when making a mule or shoe with an exposed sock liner, use contact cement). The benefit to Rubber Cement is that it allows you to use it while it's still wet and can be repositioned before it dries.
I like Barge Rubber Cement but recommend using a water-based alternative. https://tinyurl.com/2nep9m8h
Hirschkleber is a natural paste, therefore non-toxic. This is used to paste the stiffeners into place, it's used while fresh and once it dries it hardens. This paste can also be used to stack leather heels, some shoemakers prefer it rather than using contact cement. I like both, but do admit that sanding the hirschkleber pasted leather-stacked heel is much easier. Contact cement can sometimes be annoying to sand smoothly. Can me activated with a bit of water, and some shoemakers like to apply it a bit diluted. https://tinyurl.com/ah2hah4c
Water-based Cements are a wonderful addition to the shoemaking workshop! I still like to keep both (solvent-based and water-based) cements around because I don't always have success with using the water-based versions. They are definitely healthier for the shoemaker, so I encourage you to practice using them. I'm still working on it!
I like Renia Aquilim GL (their water-based rubber cement) and Renia Aquilim 315 (their water-based contact cement). I hear there's a shoe-specific Renia water-based cement that activates with heat, I'm intrigued but have yet to try it.
https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/renia-aquilim-315-water-based-glue?variant=29862688555117
I hope this helps anyone who may have doubts! I'll happily answer any questions and will add another post if I happen to have missed any important info.
Happy Making! X